Paul Andrew On Updating Salvatore Ferragamo's Footwear

When the dapper young English shoe designer Paul Andrew arrived at Salvatore in Florence final summer to take on the function of designing the 90-12 months-outdated house’s shoes, he had just one thought: Everyone wears a sneaker today. Trying at the kind of inventive, brilliant, and sometimes even plain crazy concepts that Signor ferragamo belt sale - - dreamed up when he shod just about every Hollywood star capable of stroll the size and breadth of the RKO back lot—the 1938 gold leather-based sandals resting on sky-high rainbow wedges, as an illustration, or the 1947 Invisible sandal, whose barely seen threads strapped the foot to a gold metallic child-leather-based heel—Andrew’s statement would seem to run counter to all the things Ferragamo stood for. Not so, he says: "Salvatore moved to America in 1914, then studied anatomy in California so that he might create essentially the most comfortable and probably the most fabulous sneakers."

If you strive on some of Andrew’s new designs (which, oftentimes, riff on the outdated), you’ll find that he has succeeded in ticking each the former and latter packing containers. There’s his update on the curvaceous 1940s F wedge, rendered as an ankle-strap pump or bootie in rose velvet or violet suede (molding those supplies onto the heel, by the way in which, takes two labor-intensive days). The classic 1978 Vara bow pump now rests on a golden striated columnar heel galvanized in a automotive factory. As for the Gancio—that iconic metal G-like motif—it punctuates the crisscrossing of multi-strapped satin sandals in dusky pink or cobalt.

G ForceThe iconic Gancio Motif—now gilded—is used to adorn a satin sandal, $895; choose Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.


Each of them has had its construction reconfigured—a totally different set of proportions for the instep, arch, and across the toes; memory foam, for the primary time, in every shoe. "People are way more involved in sports activities at the moment, so their ft have modified," Andrew says, adding with both a snicker and a trace of grimace: "The natural collagen of our ft is about half of what it was once, which is why I had to add the cushioning." (To underscore how the performative qualities of athletic sneakers run our lives now, he has additionally created a tech-knit sneaker, in addition to an ankle boot that comes with either a mid- or greater heel. Both look equally comfortable—and cool—but as to whether you would dash in them, who can say?)

Andrew, who continues to work on his own collection from his base in New York, his home for eighteen years, has had loads of time to contemplate the house on his frequent flits to and from Florence (he makes the journey at the least a couple of times a month, generally more). "It’s unique not only because of its design landscape, however because inside, Ferragamo is just Ferragamo; it’s household-owned," he says, though the household has given Andrew carta bianca to do no matter he wants—and supplied him with the artisanal know-the best way to make it happen.

Andrew possesses a preternaturally calm demeanor and had already been visiting Italy quite a bit to provide his personal label, so he and his long-time period boyfriend are used to the schedule—but the more constant to-ing and fro-ing has meant getting into a brand new rhythm of life. What has helped has been the distractions Florence and its environs have been ready to offer: trips to look on the Botticellis in the Uffizi Gallery (a number of the paintings’ pink tones made it into the collection); spending the weekend on the eleventh-century Castel Monastero near Siena; or rolling up for dinner on the restaurant Fuor d’Acqua, the place, says Andrew, "I don’t even look at the menu—they simply convey out this wonderful branzino cooked in salt." In more ways than one, it seems, he’s getting his ft under the desk in Florence.